Imagine waking up tomorrow morning and your lights don't work with no Wi-Fi... and your phone is sitting at 23%. You already know what else comes with that if you rely on air conditioning to make your home comfortable. And if you know... you know the food in your refrigerator is on the clock in terms of thawing, melting, getting warmer than the suggested temperature, and headed down the road of spoiling.
And you can't forget about the time, because... when night comes it's going to be dark.
For residents dealing with the aftermath of the destructive storms that recently hit Northwest Indiana, this hasn't been some hypothetical situation.
An August 11, 2026 derecho brought winds reaching 99 mph to parts of the region, knocking down trees, utility poles, and power lines. That's no joke. At one point, hundreds of thousands of customers were without electricity, and Gary, Indiana became one of the hardest-hit communities. More than a week after the storm, tens of thousands across Northwest Indiana were still waiting for their electricity to return... with some of us only finding out about it through social media. (Shout out to Keith Lee!)
Nearly two weeks later, more than 10,000 households were reportedly still without power, prompting Gary Mayor Eddie Melton to call the situation unacceptable.
Power was eventually restored to the overwhelming majority of customers, but the extended outage left Gary dealing with cleanup, spoiled food, property damage, and a lot of understandable questions about preparedness and restoration timelines.
That's a reminder for all of us:
Electricity is something we take for granted... right up until it's gone.
So today's Tech This Out isn't about gaming PCs, headphones, or the latest smartphone.
It's about keeping the lights on. It's about keeping your phone charged. It's about protecting some of your food... and perhaps most importantly, it's about having enough preparation or just the willingness that you may even be able to help somebody else when they need it.
You Don't Need $1,000 to Start Preparing
I intentionally wanted to include products at very different price points in this article.
Not everyone has $1,000 available for emergency equipment. Somebody may have $20 or less. Someone else may have $150 or so.
Another household may be ready to invest in enough backup power to keep several major appliances running.
Preparedness shouldn't be presented as something only people with money can afford.
So let's start small... really small, because a number of solutions get overlooked because of assumptions.
$10 Can Put a Lot of Light in Your Emergency Kit
One of the simplest products I use myself is a tiny USB plug-in LED light.
You can currently get a 20-pack for $9.99.
The seller lists these little lights for a 5V USB supply (5V/1A adapter specification) with a rated power of 1W. Yes... one watt. Those two numbers are not the same thing: the 1A figure describes the supply capability listed for the product, while a 1W load at 5V works out to roughly 0.2A of actual current.
I actually use these in my office because they provide a surprising amount of usable light without requiring me to turn on larger lights when I don't need them.
During an outage, that low power consumption becomes extremely useful. Why? Well... when you connect one to a compatible USB power bank, a small amount of stored energy can provide light for a very long time compared with trying to illuminate a room using a conventional household lamp.
There's even a 5-pack Haul option for around $1.73.
That makes these an incredibly inexpensive item to buy for yourself—or hand to someone else who needs emergency lighting. So even if you only have 5 to 20 of these mini USB lights to give... think of the 5 to 20 people you just made a positive impact on. You might be thinking that I'm just making this up, but (blowing smoke up your Gi isn't part of the job... so) take a look at this section of my office after I plugged one of these up and turned off the other lights:
I wanted to show you how much these mini USB lights can shine, but for the skeptics I took a few pics to prove that it's coming from the plug-in.
Important: these lights are designed for 5V USB power. Don't connect them directly to higher-voltage power sources or adapters that don't provide the appropriate 5V output.
Add a Power Bank and Now We're Cooking (Follow Me)
Pair those little lights with a 38,800mAh Solar Power Bank, currently around $18.99.
The unit provides two USB-A outputs rated at up to 5V/2.4A and can also be used to charge a cellphone.
And here's something worth explaining. Connecting a properly designed 5V USB light to a regulated 5V USB port capable of supplying up to 2.4A doesn't force 2.4 amps through the light. The port provides the correct voltage and makes current available; the load draws what it requires.
Think of amperage capacity as what's available... not what's automatically shoved into the device.
So a properly functioning 5V USB port rated for 2.4A has more than enough available current for a 5V USB light drawing less than that amount.
The power bank also includes an integrated light (as well) + a clip, making it useful for an emergency bag.
One caution, though: Think of the small solar panel built into products like these primarily as an emergency supplemental charging feature, not as a substitute for a full-size solar panel. A tiny panel simply doesn't have the surface area of the larger panels we're getting to later.
Still... for less than $30 (ay) or even cheaper options, power banks and mini USB lights can give a household communication + lighting capability when the grid goes down. That's affordable preparation or an invaluable gift, and you see the level of light it's able to produce (at least in part).
Step Up to a Portable Power Station
If you need AC power, we have to move beyond pocket-sized battery banks.
This 288Wh LiFePO4 Portable Power Station is currently around $129.98.
It provides:
288Wh battery capacity
350W continuous AC output
Up to 700W surge
AC outlet
Solar charging input
Wall charging
Vehicle charging
This is where emergency power starts becoming considerably more versatile.
Instead of only powering USB devices, you can begin running selected small AC electronics—provided their wattage remains within the station's limits.
And because it accepts solar input, you can use energy from the sun during daylight hours to replenish some of what you'll need that evening.
That's the strategy I want you thinking about:
Charge during the day... Conserve at night... Repeat.
40W vs. 60W vs. 100W Solar Panels — What's the Difference?
Portable solar panels are also available:
- 40W — $43.99
- 60W — $59.99
- 100W — $85.49
So what's the difference? It boils down to power generation... under suitable conditions.
A 100W panel has the potential to replenish a compatible power station considerably faster than a 40W panel because it can produce a higher maximum output. (Duh of the day!)
But don't interpret "100W" as a promise that you'll receive exactly 100 watts all day + the right setup may require more (see below).
Clouds, shade, temperature, panel angle, time of day, conversion losses, vindictive donkeys, and the charging limits of your power station can all reduce real-world output.
- The 40W model makes sense for smaller batteries and lighter charging needs.
- 60W gives you additional charging potential without becoming particularly large.
- 100W is where I'd start looking if solar charging is going to become a meaningful part of your outage strategy.
Just remember to check the solar input voltage, connector, and maximum input rating of your power station before buying a panel.
Tech This Out Explained: Watts vs. Watt-Hours
Before we go any further, you need to know two numbers:
- Watts (W) tell you how much power something is demanding or delivering at a particular moment.
- Watt-hours (Wh) tell you how much energy is stored or consumed over time.
For example, a 100W television running for five hours theoretically consumes:
100W × 5 hours = 500Wh
A 1,000Wh battery therefore doesn't mean you can run any 1,000W appliance for as long as you want.
It means you have approximately 1,000 watt-hours of stored energy before accounting for inverter losses and other inefficiencies. This brings us to one of the most important pieces of advice in this entire article:
Add Up What You Actually Need to Power
Don't buy a generator simply because the box has the biggest number.
Look at the appliances you actually want running and... write down their wattage.
Your list might include:
- Refrigerator
- Freezer
- Wi-Fi router
- TV
- Laptop
- Phone chargers
- Lights
- Fans
- CPAP or other essential medical equipment
- Air conditioner
Then add up what may need to operate simultaneously.
Motor-driven appliances such as refrigerators and air conditioners can also require substantially more power for a moment when their compressors start, which is why generators and power stations have separate continuous/running and surge/starting ratings.
Now you're shopping based on your needs instead of guessing. I really didn't want to drag this out, but... I think this information will help you ahead of your purchase.
The Generac 5,200W Dual-Fuel Inverter Generator
If your backup requirements are considerably larger, this is where fuel-powered generators enter the conversation.
A Generac 5,200 Starting Watt Dual-Fuel Portable Inverter Generator is currently around $1,249.
It delivers:
- 5,200 starting watts
- 3,900 running watts
- Can operate on gasoline or propane
Generac rates it for approximately 9 hours at 50% load on gasoline and approximately 11 hours using a 20-pound propane tank at 50% load. It also uses inverter technology to provide clean, stable power suitable for sensitive electronics. Having two fuel choices can be extremely valuable during an extended outage because you're not dependent on only one energy source.
Need Even More? Generac Goes Tri-Fuel
The Generac 12,500 Starting Watt Tri-Fuel Portable Generator is currently around $1,069.
This is a different animal at a heck of a price. It can operate using:
- Gasoline
- Propane
- Natural gas
On gasoline, Generac specifies 12,500 starting watts and 9,500 running watts, with approximately 9.5 hours of runtime at 50% load. Output changes depending upon which fuel you're using.
Tri-fuel capability gives homeowners another level of flexibility during prolonged outages.
But please don't confuse portable with whole-home plug-and-play.
Connecting a portable generator to household wiring requires the proper equipment and installation, such as an approved transfer switch installed according to applicable electrical requirements. Never improvise a connection to your home's electrical system.
ERAYAK Gives You Another Middle-Ground Option
At approximately $559, the ERAYAK 4500PD/PDE Dual-Fuel Inverter Generator provides another interesting step between small battery stations and the larger Generac options:
On gasoline, it's rated for approximately:
4,500W peak / 3,500W running
On propane:
4,050W peak / 3,150W running
It's parallel-ready, includes CO detection, and produces low-distortion inverter power suitable for sensitive electronics.
One of its coolest features is automatic fuel switching. With the appropriate fuels connected, the system can transition from propane to gasoline when propane runs low, helping maintain power without requiring you to shut everything down first.
That's sweet... and extremely useful during an outage when the last thing you want to hear is everything suddenly powering down at 2AM.
IMPORTANT: Fuel Generators Stay OUTSIDE
This has to be said each and every time (and I won't even call it a Duh of the Day)... because there are people who continue to make this dangerous mistake!
Never run a gasoline, propane, or natural-gas generator inside your home.
- Not in your living room.
- Not in your basement.
- Not in your garage with the door open.
Carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless and can kill without warning. The CDC says portable generators should be operated outside and more than 20 feet from windows, doors, and vents, and recommends having a battery-powered or battery-backup carbon-monoxide detector inside the home.
Take that seriously.
Your generator is supposed to help you survive the outage... not create another emergency.
What About Battery Power for a Bigger Portion of the Home?
Now we're getting into serious battery capacity.
The ABOK Ark3600 is currently $1,099.
It provides:
- 3,600W output
- 3,840Wh capacity
- LiFePO4 battery chemistry
- Up to 2,000W solar input
*It can be expanded to a respectable 11,520Wh with additional batteries.
ABOK rates the battery for more than 4,000 cycles and says the base unit can fully AC-charge in approximately three hours.
So... How Much House Can 11,520Wh Power?
Hmmm... you can't accurately answer this by square footage.
A 1,000-square-foot home running central air, an electric water heater, electric cooking appliances, gaming PCs, TVs, and other equipment could consume dramatically more electricity than a 2,000-square-foot home where the family is only powering a refrigerator, lights, Wi-Fi, phones, and a few fans.
Load matters more than floor space.
At its fully expanded 11.52kWh, here's a simplified illustration:
Real runtime will be lower because of inverter losses, battery-management overhead, changing appliance loads, and reserve capacity.
That's why I would call 11,520Wh serious emergency energy, not "this powers X square feet."
ABOK itself markets the expanded configuration for multi-day essential backup, including refrigerators, lights, Wi-Fi, CPAP equipment, and other selected loads.
And That $1,099 Price Deserves Attention
At the time of writing, $1,099 buys the base 3,840Wh Ark3600, not the full 11,520Wh configuration (or they'd be sold out). Each additional 3,840Wh Ark3600E battery has recently been listed around $999, so reaching maximum capacity requires a substantially larger investment.
Still, the base unit's price-to-capacity ratio is noteworthy.
For comparison, ABOK currently lists its own 2,160Wh Ark2500 at $799, while the 3,840Wh Ark3600 is $1,099. So that additional $300 will get you an additional 1,680Wh... if you rock with it.
OUKITEL P5000 Pro: More Capacity Right Out of the Box
Another serious battery option is the OUKITEL P5000 Pro.
The exact Amazon listing featured in this article advertises:
- 5,120Wh capacity
- 3,600W continuous AC output
- 6,000W surge/starting output
- Up to 1,000W MPPT solar input
Model note: OUKITEL has published P5000 Pro listings/revisions with different surge specifications. The figures above intentionally match the Amazon version linked in this article, so verify the exact listing before you buy.
The featured Amazon option is currently around $1,499.
So here's an interesting comparison with the ABOK featured above:
- ABOK Ark3600: $1,099 / 3,840Wh = about $0.29 per advertised Wh, with expansion available.
- OUKITEL P5000 Pro: $1,499 / 5,120Wh = about $0.29 per advertised Wh, with more capacity available immediately.
That's close enough that I wouldn't pick either one based on price-per-Wh alone.
Ask yourself:
How much energy do I need?
How much output do I need at once?
Do I want expandability later?
That's how you find the better value for you.
Don't Forget About the Refrigerator
Electricity isn't only about lights and entertainment.
Food gets expensive.
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Ready.gov and USDA guidance says an unopened refrigerator generally keeps food cold for about four hours, while a full freezer can hold a safe temperature for roughly 48 hours if it stays closed (about 24 hours if it is half-full).
You've probably seen the frozen-cup-and-coin trick online. It can give you a rough clue that substantial thawing occurred, but don't use that trick to decide whether food is safe. An appliance thermometer is the better tool. USDA says food that still contains ice crystals or remains at 40°F or below can generally be safely refrozen.
If you want to adapt to the situation and move key items into something smaller that takes far less power, this 53QT energy-saving electric cooler/refrigerator/freezer is currently around $249.99.
A portable refrigerator paired with an appropriately sized power station can give you a place to protect food, refrigerated drinks, and temperature-sensitive necessities when the product is appropriate for them. It also avoids sacrificing interior space to a large bag of ice.
Pro tip: If the cooler is warm when you first power it up, adding several already-frozen water bottles gives it a head start. They add thermal mass and can help stabilize the interior temperature once things are cold, which may reduce how often the compressor needs to cycle. That's different from claiming the bottles magically erase the cooler's electrical use.
The listing for this Antarctic Star option identifies approximately 45W in Eco mode and 65W in Max mode. Check the actual label/specification on the exact unit you purchase.
Those numbers come from simple continuous-load math: 5,120Wh ÷ watts. Real results can be shorter because of inverter/BMS losses, or longer because the compressor does not normally run continuously once the cooler reaches its target temperature. Room temperature, thermostat setting, how often you open the lid, and how much already-cold food is inside all matter.
Bottom line: check the actual wattage of the cooler you buy, and don't promise yourself a specific number of days until you've measured how it behaves in your real environment.
And Then There's Water
Electricity gets most of the attention during an outage.
Water shouldn't be an afterthought.
A large emergency water filtration system is currently around $67.99.
A filter doesn't make every source of contaminated water automatically safe, and filtration systems differ in what microorganisms, chemicals, and contaminants they can remove. Follow the manufacturer's specifications and local boil-water or emergency advisories.
But having a legitimate emergency filtration option alongside stored potable water can add another layer to your preparedness plan. Also, you can use this to fill up a portable camping solar shower bag to wash up... in your shower. It would be the shower within your shower that you're using to... take a shower.
Remember Our Hydroponic Garden?
Not long ago, we introduced you to the NEEWER Basics Hydroponics Growing System Kit.
There was a reason for that article too. Growing food isn't about believing the grocery store is going to disappear tomorrow. But... owning backup power isn't about believing the electrical grid is going to collapse tomorrow either, and keeping emergency water isn't about assuming your faucet won't work tomorrow. Do you see where I'm going with this?
It's about understanding something extremely simple:
Food. Water. Power. We use them every day... and having alternatives available when normal systems temporarily fail can make a difficult situation considerably easier.
You Can Prepare Yourself AND Help Somebody Else
This might be my favorite part of this entire article.
You don't necessarily have to spend hundreds of dollars helping another person prepare.
Remember those USB lights?
A 20-pack is $9.99.
Split them up.
Give a couple to your parents.
Put a few in your emergency bag.
Give some to an elderly neighbor.
Pair one with an inexpensive power bank for someone who doesn't have emergency lighting.
Don't Wait Until the Storm Is on the Radar
There's a reason we've presented everything from $1.73 USB lights to four-figure backup power systems.
Preparedness has to meet people where they are financially.
If you've got $10... start there.
If you've got $50... build from there.
Get in where you fit in!
If you're able to invest in a larger solar generator or fuel-powered generator, understand your actual loads and buy accordingly. A good backup setup can substantially reduce how dependent you are on the grid during an outage, but don't assume a battery makes your home energy-independent indefinitely.
If You're Building a "One Comfortable Room" Outage Setup
Concentrating your essential equipment in one room can be a smart way to stretch stored energy. A setup might include:
- A power station in the 5kWh class or larger
- An efficient inverter window AC or other appropriately sized cooling option
- A portable refrigerator/freezer for priority food
- Phones and battery banks
- Mini USB lights for moving around the house
- Optional low-power equipment such as the NEEWER hydroponics system
But here's the important part: don't size the battery from room square footage alone. Add the actual wattage of the devices you plan to run and estimate how many hours per day each one will operate. Air conditioning can easily become the dominant load.
Solar Math Without the Guesswork
The exact Amazon P5000 Pro listing featured in this article advertises up to 1,000W of MPPT solar input. That number matters. Connecting more panel nameplate wattage does not mean the station can accept unlimited solar power, and panel voltage/current limits still have to remain within the manufacturer's specifications.
For an easy illustration, let's use 5 peak-sun-hours on a good solar day. Peak-sun-hours are not the same thing as the number of daylight hours.
Those are theoretical figures. Clouds, shade, heat, panel angle, season, wiring losses and the station's charging behavior will lower real production. If you need more energy every day than your solar array can replace, the battery will gradually run down—even if the battery started the day full.
That is the piece of the equation I really want you to remember:
Daily energy used - daily energy replenished = what your battery has to make up.
If you're fortunate enough to have more than you need during an emergency... look around. Somebody else might need a hand or at least a little juice.
The people of Gary, Indiana didn't schedule an August derecho and decide they wanted to spend days without electricity. Severe weather, equipment failures, accidents, hurricanes, tornadoes, winter storms, and other emergencies don't make appointments.
By August 27, 2026, reporting showed power had been restored across Northwest Indiana to the overwhelming majority of affected customers, while cleanup and recovery in Gary continued.
Don't wait until the lights go out to start figuring out what you'll do when the lights go out... have something. The easiest entry points remain those mini USB lights and power banks. Another useful option could be a 20,000mAh rechargeable camping fan, because when the power goes... so does the AC.
You can also consider the higher-capacity solar power-bank option if it fits your needs—but remember that the tiny built-in solar panel is supplemental. A hand crank or small integrated panel is emergency convenience, not a replacement for a proper solar array.
Preparation gives you options... so keep your emergency equipment maintained. Check on your neighbors. And as Captain Planet said... The power is yours! (Game on.)
References:
- National Weather Service — August 11, 2026 Derecho
- CDC — Carbon Monoxide / Generator Safety
- USDA — Food Safety During Power Outages
- Generac — 5,200W Dual-Fuel Specifications
- Generac — GP9500E Tri-Fuel Specifications
- ERAYAK — 4500PD Specifications
- ABOK — Ark3600 Specifications
+ Sophi
